Overview
Located at the base of Mt. Myohyang in North Pyongan Province, Pohyon Temple is an ancient Buddhist sanctuary established in 1042 during the Koryo Dynasty. Pohyon Temple is a significant cultural treasure in North Korea, offering perhaps the best glimpse of Korea’s Buddhist heritage and historical architecture in the country.
Buddhism in North Korea
Buddhism has deep roots on the Korean peninsula, becoming the state religion under the Koryo Dynasty (918-1392). It remains an important part of Korean heritage and cultural identity, protected under the state.
There are dozens of Buddhist temples and hermitages throughout North Korea, and they are hailed as cultural relics which are meticulously cared for by practising monks living on-site, many for decades. While contemporary North Korea is officially atheist and religious activity is not widespread, active Buddhists are registered under the Korea Buddhist Federation and are permitted to practice their rituals. These monks are knowledgeable in Buddhist traditions and encourage visitors to participate in practices such as making offerings or burning incense.
We visited many of North Korea’s remote temples as part of an exclusive Buddhism tour of North Korea, which you can read about on our blog post.
History
Temples began being constructed in the Mt. Myohyang region in the 7th century, and according to inscriptions there was over 360 of them. Following the construction of Pohyon Temple in 1042 during the Koryo Dynasty, it became the largest in the South and North Pyongan Provinces and gained prominence as a regional centre for Buddhist scholarship.
During the Imjin War (1592-1598), Buddhist monk Sosan from Pohyon Temple led a volunteer army of monks in defending Korea against Japanese invasion, becoming a folk hero and elevating the status of the Pohyon Temple.
Initially consisting of 24 buildings, the temple was damaged and repaired several times between 1441 and 1775. In recent history, the temple suffered damage from a flood in 1915 and again during the Japanese occupation, which implemented a policy of destroying Korean culture. Many cultural artifacts kept inside the temple were either destroyed or looted.
The complex again suffered considerable destruction by U.S aerial bombing during the Korean War between 1950 and 1953.
In 1979, the Pohyon Temple was restored to its original state, along with similarly important temples Sokwang Temple and Singye Temple, as primary examples of ancient Korean architecture and tradition for generations to come.
Architecture, Buildings and Artifacts
The Pohyon Temple complex exemplifies 11th-century Korean architecture. Its main building, Taeung Hall, is a timber construction characterised by a curved roof with intricate, bright carvings. In front, stands a preserved granite 13-story Sokka Pagoda.
On the hillside, the Manse Pavilion features columns and colourful decoration brackets seen only in the Koryo Dynasty. It once housed a 1-tonne bell, and outside you’ll find the preserved nine-story Tabo Pagoda which is designated as a National Treasure. The Kwanum Hall, built in 1449, is notable as the oldest original building on the site, built during the Joson dynasty (1392-1910).
Pohyon Temple houses many ancient artifacts, including stone monuments and wooden hanging boards. Its most notable treasure is the ‘Complete Collection of Buddhist Scriptures’. This collection comprises 80,000 wooden blocks with Buddhist texts carved into them, each featuring 22 lines and 14 letters. It’s said to be one of the world’s oldest Buddhist texts.
Throughout the complex, you’ll find vivid murals depicting lotus flowers and mythical animals important to Buddhism such as phoenixes and dragons.
Visiting on our Tours
We consider Pohyon Temple a must-visit, and it’s included on all our itineraries that visit Mt. Myohyang. The complex is picturesque and both historically and culturally significant to North Korea. A visit takes about one hour and is best combined with the International Friendship Exhibition located nearby.
As Pohyon Temple is an active religious site, it’s important to be respectful of the etiquette. This includes dressing modestly, taking your shoes off if entering any of the halls, not running or eating, and keeping your voice down throughout the complex. The monks here are very friendly and love to tell stories or educate you on Buddhism in North Korea, so we encourage you to ask questions! Tourists are also welcome to participate in any rituals.